Château of Roquebrune - the Fort

This area, with a curved ceiling, is the lower part of the fort. (see the diagram posted yesterday). You can see part of the Round Walk, where we were yesterday, on the top left hand of the photograph.

From the end of the XVth century the Grimaldis attempted to increase the donjon's military power by digging out large, wide artillery loopholes in the thick walls. however, they soon had to face reality: the battery of cannon that could be placed in a semi-circle on the rock face dominating the north side of the fortress, deprived it of its ancent invulnerability. You can these loopholes, from the outside, in THIS PHOTOGRAPH.

Below you see one of the channels cut into the walls. Cannon was rolled down these channels onto the invaders below. You can see one of these (not the one I photographed) on the extreme right and in the part of the photo flooded with sunlight.

Tomorrow, we'll enter the donjon.

Château of Roquebrune - the Round Walk - 2 + diagram of castle

Today we are standing above the Terrace. The Mediterranean is to our left. Here we get a longer shot of the Round Walk. As you see, it goes through the donjon (the Keep) and out the other side. From the Terrace we can see the panoramic view (see yesterday's photograph too) that the castle's sentinels kept watch over for a thousand years: from the Rock of Monaco to Cap Martin, from Mont Agel to the bay of Cabbé. On the west side, the main tower of the castle seems miraculously intact. In fact it was rebuilt at the beginning of the 20th century.

Below, you can see a diagram of the castle which is built over four levels. Tomorrow, we'll explore the donjon.

Château of Roquebrune - the Round Walk - 1

We've entered the Round Walk from the Common Room. The Round Walk goes all the way round the Donjon (the Keep) For a long time all fortresses had a circular walkway which allowed a rapid intervention when attacked.

Château of Roquebrune - the Kitchen - 2

Here we see the bread oven, which is to the right of the entrance we saw yesterday.

Apart from a few visits by Augustin Grimaldi, Lord of Monaco, Roquebrune and Menton, the castle only ever housed soldiers. It was therefore soldiers' fare that was prepared in this kitchen. Supplies were kept in the cellar - water was brought up from the well.

In the photo below, we can see the storage area in the kitchen. Shelves rested on the carved stone brackets within the space.

Note the graffiti. When I first visited this castle there were no iron doors, such as we saw yesterday - one could walk anywhere - and I suppose, over the years, visitors have felt the need to scratch their names in the stonework...

So, this is the last room to be seen. Tomorrow we'll walk through the far end of the Common Room to The Round Walk - which goes all the way around the donjon (the keep).

Château of Roquebrune - the Kitchen - 1

All the rooms in the castle have an iron door to prevent vicitor access. After all, we all walk around alone - no guide as such - merely the audio commentary we listen to. In previous photographs I've pushed the camera through the bars as I did for the one below.

In this small space, meals were prepared for the soldiers from the Middle Ages onwards. It was actually restored in the 16th century. The mantlepiece in the photo below is made of olive wood.

Tomorrow, we see the bread oven. And also a storage area. After that - fresh air again!

If you'd like to see the Château dog, please click on the link.

Château of Roquebrune - Nobleman's Dwelling: the Common Room

This second room in the Nobleman's Dwelling was used as a communal room and dining room. The doorway in the far corner is the lavatory - see below - which emptied directly outside the castle walls.

In the Middle Ages, tables didn't exist. Planks of wood were laid on trestles, hence the phrase: 'to lay the table.' When the word 'table' was used, it meant the 'food', not the furniture. The soldiers normally sat on wooden chests that were used for storage and were dragged over at meal times. What furniture they did have has disappeared over time and the furniture shown is not correct for the period.

This room and the previous one - the Armoury - were transformed into barracks in the middle of the XVIIIth century.

Tomorrow, we'll take a look at the kitchen. You can see the entrance on the right-hand wall.

Château of Roquebrune - View from the Medieval Window

After so many days of bleak rooms in the castle, let get some fresh air! Especially as it's Menton Daily Photo and Monte Carlo Daily Photo's One Year Anniversary (please read message below)

So let's look out of a window - in fact, let's look out of the Medieval Window in the Great Room. Do click on the blue link above to see this extraordinary room, the window and window seats.

We are looking down, over some of the village roofs, past the XIIIth century Eglise Sainte Marguerite, to Cap Martin which juts out into the Mediterranean. Below you see a painting of Augustin Grimaldi, Bishop of Grasse, receiving a visitor. It was Grimaldi who installed this window during the 1528 restoration of the castle, which he used as his summer residence.

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Menton Daily Photo and Monte Carlo Daily Photo - FIRST BIRTHDAY!

Thank you to the City Daily Photo family for your encouragement, generous comments, fantastic help from talented photographers and most of all, friendship. Working on Menton Daily Photo and Monte Carlo Daily Photo has changed my life. I now see - really see - my beautiful part of the world. I only looked before...

And of course, a massive thankyou to Eric of Paris Daily Photo, whose brilliant vision this was and to Demosthenes and Igor, who put in endless time working on the technical issues in keeping us all up and running.

Château of Roquebrune - Nobleman's Dwelling: the Armoury

This is the Armoury which was also used as a living room and bedroom for the Genoese Castellan who was first and foremost a soldier. In the XIIIth century furniture was rudimentary. In the main it consisted of iron banded trunks containing precious objects, materials and clothes, and which also served as seats. When the Lord visited the castle he slept in this room in a four poster bed.

Below, you see a painting of this room in the XIIIth century, with the Castellan administering justice.

Note: I've added a painting of the prison so click on link if you'd like to see the poor souls languishing there.

Château of Roquebrune - Guardhouse: the Archers' Room

The Archers' Room was dug out entirely from the puddingstone rock and remains in its original condition. At the entrance to the room there used to be a trapdoor and ladder which led to the upper floor of the castle. This doesn't exist any more.

In the 14th century the Castellan (a non-commissioned officer) was in charge of the fortress for the Lord - with just 6 crossbow men. It was a hard life, no women or children, just soldiers living in bleak conditions.

When the Lord visited the castle, the Castellan would sleep in this room. Tomorrow we'll see the Armoury which is where the Nobleman slept in a four-poster bed when he visited the castle.

If you want to read about the night the Monaco Royal family and others (including my friend Candy and me) nearly went up in flames please look at today's Monte Carlo Daily Photo.

Château of Roquebrune - Guardhouse: the Prison

We've walked up the five steps you saw in yesterday's photograph and here you see the prison. In the XVIIth century the Princes of Monaco installed this prison in the south room of the former guardhouse. Prisoners were attached to chains fixed to a ball. They were usually thieves, even fellow soldiers and they were kept here till their trial at La Turbie or Nice. Others were keep here under a private arrest warrant of the Princes of Monaco.

The last people to occupy this prison appear to be the 'Barbets' (see painting below) who fought against the French revolutionary troops after the latter had occupied and then annexed (decree dated 15th February 1793) the Principality of Monaco which at that time included Menton and Roquebrune-cap-Martin.

You'll see the entry to the prison in the photograph below. Tomorrow? The Archers' Room which was dug out of the puddingstone mass. Here you'll see where the soldiers slept.

Château of Roquebrune - the Great Room - 3

We are still in The Great Room, but this time looking towards the Guardhouse and Cellar - the 15th century window is off to our right, the well is in front of us. You can see a doorway, somewhat below the level of the floor - this is where the food was stored. Fruit and vegetables were dried, fish and meat preserved in salt. Cereals were kept in the cellar as well as olive oil and wine.

The entrance to the Guardhouse is up five steops to the left of that doorway. This is where we'll find the Prison and the Archers Room. Come back tomorrow to see the Prison. You wouldn't want to have been a prisoner!

Château of Roquebrune - the Great Room - 2

We are still in The Great Room. The original vaulted ceiling collapsed after fire in 1506 and was replaced in 1528 when Augustin Grimaldi installed a panelled ceiling. He attempted to make the castle less austere and more comfortable. At that time, the mullioned window you see with the benched seats was also made. Before that the only natural light came from small 20 cm. openings. In 1597 cannonballs fired by the Duke of Guise's Provencals set fire to this wooden ceiling and it has never been built again.

Notice the well in the centre of the room? This went down to an 80 cubic metre tank built in the very beginning. There is a round structure nearby - on the ground - with a raised edge. I asked the guide about this and it was obvious she's been asked many times but doesn't know its use. Perhaps it was used to hold the bucket used to haul the water out of the well?

Tomorrow? We'll see where the food was stored and we'll start to explore the Guardhouse.

Theme Day: When people think of my city...

If I were to choose what I find iconic about Menton it would be the view in the banner along the top of this page - the beautiful Old Town and the sea. But the one thing you can't get away from and what Menton is famous for is simply the lemon. Visitors come from all over the world for Menton's celebrated Lemon Festival - La Fête du Citron - click on the link to find out why.

Today is Theme Day with 136 participants from all over the world taking part. Do take time to visit them and see what other bloggers think is considered iconic about their cities.

Portland (OR), USA - Menton, France - Monte Carlo, Monaco - Memphis (Tennessee), USA - Manila, Philippines - San Diego (CA), USA - Anderson (SC), USA - New York City (NY), USA - San Diego (CA), USA - Mexico City, Mexico - San Francisco (CA), USA - Mumbai (Maharashtra), India - Mainz, Germany - Weston (FL), USA - Minneapolis (MN), USA - Turin, Italy - Las Vegas (NV), USA - Hobart (Tasmania), Australia - Bicheno, Australia - Durban, South Africa - Joplin (MO), USA - Nashville (TN), USA - Stockholm, Sweden - Kyoto, Japan - Tokyo, Japan - Brussels, Belgium - Chicago (IL), USA - Montpellier, France - Seattle (WA), USA - Mazatlan, Mexico - Saint Paul (MN), USA - Sharon (CT), USA - Sesimbra, Portugal - Toulouse, France - Tuzla, Bosnia and Herzegovina - Susanville (CA), USA - Maple Ridge (BC), Canada - Saint Louis (MO), USA - Prague, Czech Republic - Helsinki, Finland - Pilisvörösvár, Hungary - Lisbon, Portugal - Mexico (DF), Mexico - Trujillo, Peru - Dunedin (FL), USA - Albuquerque (NM), USA - Port Angeles (WA), USA - Cottage Grove (MN), USA - Saint-Petersburg, Russian Federation - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia - London, UK - Baziège, France - Jefferson City (MO), USA - Greenville (SC), USA - Selma (AL), USA - Mumbai, India - Naples (FL), USA - Norwich (Norfolk), UK - Silver Spring (MD), USA - Setúbal, Portugal - Stayton (OR), USA - Bellefonte (PA), USA - Sofia, Bulgaria - Arradon, France - Montego Bay, Jamaica - Athens, Greece - Austin (TX), USA - Singapore, Singapore - West Sacramento (CA), USA - Jackson (MS), USA - Wassenaar (ZH), Netherlands - Budapest, Hungary - Rotterdam, Netherlands - St Malo, France - Chandler (AZ), USA - Melbourne, Australia - Port Vila, Vanuatu - Cleveland (OH), USA - Nottingham, UK - Kansas City (MO), USA - The Hague, Netherlands - Crystal Lake (IL), USA - Wrocław, Poland - Chateaubriant, France - Cheltenham, UK - Moscow, Russia - Monrovia (CA), USA - Saigon, Vietnam - Toruń, Poland - Grenoble, France - Lisbon, Portugal - New Orleans (LA), USA - Sydney, Australia - Boston (MA), USA - American Fork (UT), USA - Boston (MA), USA - Montréal (QC), Canada - Wichita (KS), USA - Radonvilliers, France - Buenos Aires, Argentina - Christchurch, New Zealand - Rabaul, Papua New Guinea - Wailea (HI), USA - Aliso Viejo (CA), USA - St Francis, South Africa - Port Elizabeth, South Africa - Seattle (WA), USA - Pasadena (CA), USA - Vienna, Austria - Orlando (FL), USA - Torun, Poland - Delta (CO), USA - Santa Fe (NM), USA - Minneapolis (MN), USA - Haninge, Sweden - Paris, France - Stavanger, Norway - Niamey, Niger - Le Guilvinec, France - Bogor, Indonesia - Saarbrücken, Germany - Auckland, New Zealand - Wellington, New Zealand - Budapest, Hungary - Juneau (AK), USA - Bucaramanga (Santander), Colombia - Glasgow, Scotland - Chicago (IL), USA - Jakarta, Indonesia - Adelaide (SA), Australia - Sydney, Australia - Riga, Latvia - Subang Jaya (Selangor), Malaysia - Terrell (TX), USA - Terrell (TX), USA - Inverness (IL), USA

Château of Roquebrune - the Great Room - 1

We've walked up the staircase and entered the room through the doorway you see almost dead centre in the photograph. You might think we are in the castle courtyard but not so. This was a room where receptions and ceremonies took place. Here the Castellan received the Lord and is where the vassals came here to pay homage and inhabitants of the village swore an oath of allegiance.

This room used to have a stone vaulted ceiled but was destroyed in fire and replaced by a coffered ceiling. Fires were frequent and there were three: in 1506 (under Genovese rule), in 1597 (under Provençal rule) and in 1747 during the Austro-Sardinian war. In the end, the room remained open to the elements.

Come back the day after tomorrow when we'll explore more of the Great Room. Tomorrow is Theme Day, of course.

Note 1. I've added copy to the last two days' entries - discussing the drawbridge and the retractable staircase. I visited the castle again this morning, this time writing down a lot more information and this time legibly enough for me to read it when I got home!

Note 2. Roquebrune village in New York? Does it exist? Go to New York City Daily Photo to find out!

Château of Roquebrune - the staircase to the Great Room

We've crossed the bridge and entered the castle through this doorway and immediately we climb this staircase. It's quite steep. No rush, take your time.

Originally there was no staircase like this but a retractable ladder and a trap door were used which could easily be taken away if the castle was attacked. At the end of the 15th century, the retractable staircase was replaced by the current staircase.

The Counts of Ventimiglia ruled the castle from 970 to 1157 when it was given to the Republic of Genoa, who ruled between 1157 and 1395. They had a triple role: military, political and judiciary. The Genoese Castellans guarded the castle with an ordinary garrison but in times of war, the contingent was reinforced when the male population of the village was mobilised.

These steps lead to the Great Room, which we will see tomorrow.

Château of Roquebrune - view from the Open Air Theatre

It's dark - perhaps there's a moon - the lights of Monte Carlo shimmer in the distance, the air is balmy. We take our places. Soon we'll have lights, music, action - let the magic begin...

Tomorrow - we enter the castle.

Château of Roquebrune - the Open Air Theatre

You can see the bridge and entrance to the castle on the lower left-hand side (see yesterday's photograph to see the bridge from the side). We've already walked up those wide steps and passed under one of those green structures to reach it. But here's the surprise - an open air theatre. To watch a performance, lit from those green towers, with a view of the Mediterranean and across to Monaco isn't at all a bad thing.

I've seen several productions here - I remember Macbeth put on by the English-Speaking Drama Group of Monaco. The setting is perfect. You can probably picture Lady Macbeth running down the bridge, white robes catching the moonlight - 'Out damned spot!'

Or the three witches...'Double, double toil and trouble; fire burn and cauldron bubble.'

There wasn't always the wooden seating you see in this photograph. We sat on the bare stone benches in those days and woe betide anyone who didn't take a cushion to sit on! You always knew who was going to the theatre as they walked up the hill from the carpark, cushion at the ready.

Tomorrow? - the view from the theatre - and then we enter the castle.

Château of Roquebrune - the Bridge

This is a sideview of the bridge up to the castle keep. See yesterday's photograph which gave no idea it is actually a bridge and how high we are. It would, therefore, have acted like a moat in preventing invasion. It also gives some idea - along with yesterday's photograph - of the height of the castle which is on four separate levels.

Originally there was a wooden drawbridge to the castle which was winched up with chains.

Tomorrow you'll have a surprise - something we must see before we actually enter the castle. Do come back.

(Apologies for the not so good photograph - taken, as you see, against the sun)

Château of Roquebrune - the Fortress

We entered the grounds to the left of this photograph. We paid at the cash desk and some of us now have an audio guide around our necks - we've chosen our language. To borrow one of these devices we had to leave our identity card or passport as security.

As we walked up steps, almost tripping over the castle cat, the length of the castle is on our left. The castle was built in 970 by Conrad 1st, Count of Vintimille allowing him to defend the western border of his feudal domain from the Saracens.

Roquebrune castle is a fortress without luxury or ostentation. The Castellans, appointed by the Republic of Genoa between 1157 and 1395 lived the life of soldiers. The officials were replaced each year. They governed the village, collected taxes and judged minor offences. We will see how these soldiers lived as the tour goes on.

We are about to enter the fort - donjon - over a bridge. Do come back tomorrow.

Château of Roquebrune - Let the tour begin...

We've climbed to the top of Roquebrune village - to Place William Ingram - which you can see in the photograph below. You'll see the entrance to the Château is just off to the right (and above).

As our tour continues, you'll read of the varied history of the castle, which was originally a a 10th century Carolingian castle.

Today, however, I want to jump a good few centuries and tell you about Sir William Ingram, a rich English baronet, for whom this square was named. In 1888 the castle was sold to 5 Roquebrunois citizens and they, in turn, sold it to Ingram in 1911. He started restoring it into an unauthentic fairytale castle. The locals kicked up a fuss and stopped the work. Later, in 1921, Sir William Ingram gave the castle to Roquebrune.

If you would like to see La Vigie, the house that Sir William Ingram built to the east of Monte Carlo, please click on the link.

Tomorrow, we enter the castle grounds.

Day trip

Sunday afternoon and this boat is about to take off on a little trip. Notice the guys fishing on the right-hand side.

Tomorrow - back to Roquebrune village and the tour of the Château.

Reflections

We've not finished in Roquebrune village (see second paragraph) - but just for a couple of days I fancied coming back down to Menton (no good reason, I just thought we might all like to be by the sea) - so I hope you approve. Here we are in the port below the Old Town. It's a glorious day after so much rain - the autoroute was closed above Roquebrune - falling rocks, dangerous boulders that needed to be brought down. The train track was closed at Eze just along the coast. Heavy rain after a long dry spell is always dangerous and driving up and down the valleys, you really have to take care. I've had to avoid three falls on the Route de Gorbio already - but look at today - absolute heaven.

As for Roquebrune, we'll go back in a couple of days and then we start a full tour of the 10th century Château. I promise you it'll be worth the wait.

Roquebrune village - 24

Many villages retain their lavoir (wash house) - indeed many are still in use by villagers. The one in my village, Gorbio, is regularly in use by the locals.

Here's the lavoir in Roquebrune, which is found near to the entrance of the village. As you can see, no water in it at the moment. Don't you love the sign 'It is forbidden to wash vehicles.' I took this photograph over the Christmas/New Year period, hence the crèche which you see in front of the lavoir. Each Christmas the village of Roquebrune creates a Chemin des Crèches. This year 130 crèches were exhibited - one family alone created 17. All compete for the top prize and the tourist office organises tours of the crèches.

Roquebrune village - 23

This is part of rue Pié, one of the oldest streets in the village. It rises up from where we saw the pool and view of Monaco a couple of days ago. In less than a minute or so from where I took that photograph, we are in this hidden part of rue Pié - carved as you see, out of the 'poudingue' rock.

Roquebrune village - 22

This is the hotel and restaurant Les Deux Frères. It's in the main square with La Grotte opposite. From the car parking way below, you enter the village by the road that you can just see at the end of the building.

See the stone bench to the left? Well alongside that is an iron railing with wondrous views down to Cap Martin and to Monaco. If you click on the link for the hotel, you'll see a photograph that makes this even clearer. I've posted several photographs already of Monaco and of Cap Martin taken from those railings.

Les Deux Frères is run by a very amiable Dutchman called Willem who will give you a very warm welcome if you visit his lovely hotel. It's a great place to stay or simply to visit for lunch or dinner.

Roquebrune village - 21

This is Impasse du Four, which means the Cul-de-sac of the Oven. This is where, in times medieval, the seigneurial oven would have been found. I'm adding the photograph below - I really don't know - but perhaps what we see behind the screen is the original oven.

Roquebrune village - 20

Not all the houses in the village are jumbled together, with no view. In fact, many are surprising - internal gardens, balconies with a view of the sea. You can see another view of this house in the photo below - who'd have thought they'd have a view like this!

Tomorrow, come and see the Impasse du Four - where the seigneurial oven once stood.

Roquebrune village - 19

Here's the village post office in a building that was once the presbytery of St. Marguerite church you see in the background. Above the door you can see a fragment of a sarcophagus from the second century.

We'll be visiting the church one day. Meanwhile, let me know if you'd like us to continue looking around the village a little longer or whether you'd like to start the tour of the Xth century Château.

There's so much to see in this beautiful village, it's hard to know where to stop and frankly we've hardly begun - there's so much I want to show you. But don't worry - even if we go back down to Menton, we can always come back up again. It's not far!

Roquebrune village - 18

A pretty corner of the village. Note the boarded-up windows and state of the walls. Just a little work needed, methinks.

Roquebrune village - 17

Meet Julien Mehmed (Julien des bois) in his workshop which is situated just below the Xth century Château in the village. Julien works in olive wood and I found the following words on a very small website dedicated to him.

Olivier arbre mythique, symbole de paix et de longévité existait déjà à l'époque de la préhistoire. Cultivé encore aujourd'hui tout autour du bassin méditerranéen son bois dur, avec son veinage riche donne des sculptures pleine de vie.

....and my probably not quite correct translation...

The mythical olive tree, symbol of peace and longlife already existed at the time of pre-history. Still cultivated today in the Mediterranean basin for its hard wood with rich veining which makes sculptures come to life.

And if you missed the beautiful 1,000 (plus) year old olive tree in the village please click on the link.

Roquebrune village - 16

'Au Coeur de l'Olivier' - this is the atelier and gallery of Julien Mehmed, the olive wood sculptor. Known as Julien des bois, he opened this studio in rue du Château in 1959. He's fascinated by the history of Roquebrune and is always happy to share his knowledge. Come back tomorrow and see Julien at work.

Roquebrune village - 15

Kids play football everywhere - here are a couple kicking a ball about in rue de la Fontaine.

Roquebrune village - 14

This is the butcher's shop in the village. The church is off to the left. Notice the two plastic bottles outside? Do you know what these are for? Most original answer gets a postcard of Roquebrune village - and first correct answer gets one too.

Roquebrune village - 13

Here's a small part of the village as seen from above. You can really see how narrow the streets are and how the houses live cheek by jowl. Some have new roofs, some have those beautiful old tiles.

And if want to know where we are standing, click on THIS LINK - see the flagpole - that's where we are, leaning over the parapet of the Xth century Château. Of course, we'll be taking a full tour of the Château - and that's a treat - but I've more good things to show you in the village first.

Roquebrune village - 12

This look-out and tiny picnic area has always fascinated me. It belongs, so far as I can tell, to a house just out of shot. We are standing, leaning over the railings at the main square of the village - the Place des Deux Frères. It overlooks Cap Martin to the left and Monaco to the right.