The Keyhole

An ancient door in the Old Town - long past its best - its keyhole rusted and useless. Yet the effect is beauty - even art.

The Trumpet Player and the Saxaphone Player

Whilst I was up at Trabuquet photographing the war graves, these two ladies were playing at various ceremonies in Menton for Armistice Day.

Meet Mireille on the left. She lives in Nice. Caroline, on the right, is Australian and has lived in the Old Town of Menton, very near to Trabuquet, for 20 years. They play with La Garde de Menton which is the Harmonie Municipale and they practice once a week in the old Fire Station. Their instruments - the trumpet and the saxophone. There is no pay for this - they do it for the pleasure and the honour.

I didn't photograph them in ideal conditions, sun on their faces, deep shade behind but I've fiddled with this photograph in iPhoto - anyway apologies it's not quite up to scratch but I wanted you to meet these two great women.

You'll notice Le Balico in the background - closed for November - many places are closed but happily not Le Lido where Mireille and Caroline drink a well-deserved bière or pression as beer is known, when it's pumped from the barrel.

Mort pour la France

There are two cemeteries above the Old Town in Menton: the cemetery of the Old Chateau, where many of the Russian and British aristocrats, who colonised Menton at the turn of the century, are buried.

From 1861, Menton became famous for its microclimate and many visitors, suffering from tuberculosis, came to Menton in the hope of getting well but sadly many died. And so the Old Cemetery had little space left for the dead.

In 1880 a second cemetery was built above the Boulevard de Garavan. It looks down over the Old Cemetery, terrace after terrace descending the hillside. Here from 1915, the fallen of Menton who died serving their country in the First World War are buried. The graves include many of the Troupes Sénégalaises .

These two photographs show only a small part of the war graves in Trabuquet. In the main photo, you'll see a square archway on the left and through this you'll find the fallen of Verdun. In other areas, tragically, you find more and more.

Many of the graves in both cemeteries are falling into disrepair but it's gratifying to see how beautifully these war graves are kept and to see so many chrysanthemums decorating them at this time of the year.

Lest we forget...

The Photography Exhibition -2

There was every type of photography at the exhibition: wildlife from Africa, portraits from Indonesia, glimpses of Vietnam, shapes, seascapes, landscapes, baby portraits, macro work and so on. There were also photographs superimposed with other photographs - sort of fantasy work with presumably much done in Photoshop. And photographs such as those above - perhaps appealing to the gentleman looking at them!

At the exhibition it was possible to get a 'studio portrait' taken by Club Image Monaco. Here you see a young family having their portrait taken - after which, they'll be given the images on a CD.

I never thought I'd take part in this exhibition, assuming everyone was professional, but walking around and talking to the very friendly exhibitors the majority are amateur photographers, passionate about their work. I asked lots of questions about printing - glossy or matt (mixed opinions on this) - noted how much of the work is framed - so I've filled in a form for next year... it will surely be an interesting, if terrifying experience and one in which I'll learn and get feedback.

Nice-Matin says there are 100 applicants so far. The subject for the competition is 'Insolite' which translates as 'unusual, strange.'

The Photography Exhibition -1

Each November Photo-Menton holds an exhibition at the Palais de l'Europe and each year more and more photographers take part. This year 86 amateur and professional photographers' work was on display.

There are several awards as well as one voted by the public. Entry is 3 euros and with your ticket you are given a small voting form to choose your favourite photographer.

Click to see Nice-Matin's reportage and photograph of this event.

After the Storms - Where River meets the Sea

Menton is built over rivers (perhaps too large a word - streams?) - you'd not know it as you walk along the promenade but at the base of every valley the water pouring off the mountains, after rain, has to go somewhere and of course, that is to the sea.

Here you see water from the Torrent de Gorbio where it meets the sea. The smaller photograph shows that same river taken from the opposite direction. You see the bridge - part of the promenade that joins Roquebrune-Cap-Martin to Menton. You can also see some of the rubbish thrown up by the storms. (Click to enlarge)

Recently, the Carei, the river running along the Route de Sospel (the road that runs from the sea to the autoroute) has been built over at vast cost and now the main road runs over it. And in Nice-Matin the other day, I read millions of euros are to be spent doing repair work over the river that brings water down another valley - the Borrigo.

After the Storms - the Route de Gorbio

We're looking at just one part of the Route de Gorbio. In the main photograph, the medieval hill village of Gorbio is about 4 kilometres behind us - we are en route to Menton on the road I take every time I drive down the valley.

At the moment there are about 5 or 6 blockages like this. Light falls this year and nothing to worry about. One year the road was cut for two months whilst two separate rock faces were made safe with retaining walls. During that time, we had to go the 'long way round' to get to Menton or Monaco.

Look carefully at the rock face (click to enlarge) - it's already been covered in heavy wire, fixed into the rock with bolts. Even so a bush has crashed and stones and very small rocks fall and tumble out. Further down the Route de Gorbio, larger rocks have hit the road waiting for the council to move them. When you drive out after any heavy rain, you have to keep a careful eye, as there are many sharp bends on the road and it's easy to hit a fallen rock which doesn't do a car much good.

The rain has stopped but water will continue to come off the mountains for days, even weeks - we've had so much of it.

After the Storms - a Walk

An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day - Henry David Thoreau

After the Storms - Sea Spray

We've had storms galore lately - they've gone on for about 10 days. Lightning, thunder and endless heavy rain - no electricity from Marseilles to Menton one day - fallen rocks and flooding.

Today I woke to rain again and then suddenly the rain stopped, the sun broke through and life on the French Riviera was back to normal again...

Here you see the sea crashing on the promenade where Roquebrune-cap-Martin meets Menton. You can see the Old Town of Menton in the distance. Part of this road along the sea has been cut for several days - the sea was coming over to the other side of the road - dangerous for cars and people.

Thankyou, America!

The tears of the Reverend Jesse Jackson say it all. Thankyou, America - thankyou!

Beau's Vote!

Meet my dog, Beau - happy to loan one of his long ears to support Obama on this, America's election day.

Beau lived in a refuge in the Var for four years - he was called Bimbo then but I changed it to Beau the day we drove home together. He is a Bruno de Jura - a Swiss hunting dog - and the origin of the Bloodhound (you can see the resemblance I think). Three weeks after coming home Beau had both ear drums removed to try and cut down on the massive infections he had. He was four and a half hours on the table. He still gets abscesses from time to time but now he's a pretty healthy dog and this is his chair - which used to be 'my' chair. Huh! He's happy and so am I to have him here. He's a wonderful, funny dog with a howl you'd not believe. He's lived with me in Gorbio for 18 months and is probably about 10 years old although really no one knows his age or history. Taking him from the refuge was the best thing I ever did. Always rescue a dog from a refuge - there are so many and they reward you a trillion-fold. I adore this funny ol' boy.

Happy Election Day, America! Beau and I will be sitting up late and watching the results. If the polls are right, we want to be part of history in the making and welcome President Barack Obama, who I know is going to so good for America and the world. It's time for CHANGE!

See how you can vote with candies on Monte Carlo Daily Photo.

Autumn - the Games of Childhood

Games in Gorbio village. One of the best things about bringing up children in a village is that they can play safely. No cars in these medieval streets and no one to bother a child. No worries about strangers. Windows have eyes and everyone knows everyone else - someone would soon see if a stranger was talking to a village child.

In this photograph, the children have been playing with two others who have just disappeared down the steps.

Don't you love those red boots!

Autumn - the Dog who loves Water

Alpha is cooling down in the area next to the wash-house in Gorbio. He's a Berger Blanc Suisse (White Swiss Shepherd Dog).

Note the 'tap' which is a cut off plastic Pellegrino bottle.

You can see the main washhouse below which sits under a roof supported on pillars. A windy day and leaves have blown in, but presumably the ladies who use this will clean it out before doing their washing.

To learn about this breed and to see more photos of Alpha - is he the dog with the longest tongue? - click on Riviera Dogs.

Theme Day: Books

He shades his eyes from the sun. She rests an arm on his chest and continues to read.

'There's no mistaking a real book when one meets it. It's like falling in love.'

- Christopher Morley (1890 - 1957)

It's the first of the month and so it's Theme Day for City Daily Photo bloggers with 178 blogs participating in the 'Books' theme. Do spend some time enjoying the many interpretations I know you'll find. Click here to view thumbnails for all participants

Autumn - Cats' Craving

Lunch at the Beausejour in Gorbio. Two village cats are avidly hoping for left-overs. Given the chance they'd have grabbed something/anything/everything. What is it with cats? For any of you following Monte Carlo Daily Photo lately, you'll remember the cat at the Chèvre d'or in Eze village doing the same thing. (click on the link)

My computer guru and good friend, Anthony, had come over from Cannes to move files and folders from my PC to the new iMac - and this lunch was a sort of thankyou - he loves the Beausejour - and so do I.

You can see, in the small pic, how the plates looked before we demolished the food. Anthony ate the duck. Mine is the fish - a dorade. No comments about red wine not going with fish. It went just fine...

Autumn - the Flowerpot

Words on a flower pot outside the Beausejour Restaurant in Gorbio. Hard to read all the words but I peered around the sides of the pot and so far as I can see it says:

'Ask and I will give you what your heart desires.' Perhaps a more accurate translation would be - 'Your wish is my command.'

Perhaps a French reader will confirm or otherwise?

Regardless -isn't it heartwarming.

Autumn - the French Lesson

One way to learn French...and needing no translation! This tile is for sale in a tourist shop just below the Old Town in Menton.

A surprise amongst the beautiful artisan-made gifts you can buy - obviously Menton caters for all tastes...

Autumn - Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea in a Gorbio garden - an olive tree in the foreground - fallen olives on the steps.

The photograph was taken on the 11th October and it's still in flower today. Actually, the flowers you see are not flowers, but 'bracts.' The actual flower of the bougainvillea is small and generally white. Each cluster of three flowers is surrounded by three or six bracts in the bright colours associated with the plant - here a beautiful pinky/red.

The name comes from Louis Antoine de Bougainville, an admiral in the French Navy who discovered the plant in Brazil in 1768.

That's our horticultural lesson for today!

Autumn - A Room with a View

A shot of Gorbio village, with the sea beyond, taken from a friend's house.

Autumn - the Creeper

This is about as autumnal as we get in the south of France. This creeper, now changing colour, covers a window and roof of a village house in Gorbio.

After reading all the comments on whether this is a Virginia creeper, a Boston ivy or a vigne vierge - for which thankyou - it seems that vigne vierge is Parthenocissus vitacea, Boston (or Japanese) ivy is Parthenocissus tricuspidata and Virginia creeper is Parthenocissus quinqifolia. All are members of the Ampelopsis family and so all are related.

Having read the comments, I think the red one would be known as vigne vierge in France and I'd call it Virginia creeper. Probably the green one is Boston ivy. But now I'm getting confused again - time to post today's photograph...

Autumn - the Butcher's Van

...so it must be Thursday evening in the village of Gorbio. The butcher arrives in the village every Thursday at 6 p.m. and carefully backs his large van into the square. He leaves at 7 p.m.

A once-a-week opportunity for villagers to buy their meat and of course to chat.

Autumn - Mothers' Meeting

Bit of a grey ol' day today. We're near the entrance to the Old Town, above the port and beach.

These pigeons are waiting for customers to arrive at the cafés below - ever hopeful they'll get a croissant crumb.

La Fête de la Branda - the Hikers

Lunch sitting under the elm tree that was planted in 1713.

Randonée - hiking, rambling, walking - is very popular around Gorbio with some great hikes through the mountains and into other villages. It's quite usual to see a group walking down the hill to take lunch in the bar, or to sit here having a picnic in the square.

Fête de la Branda - the Baker

Real bread and a wonderful baker - he looks more like a college professor than a baker, doesn't he? His gentle smile never left his face.

Fête de la Branda - the Musician's Lunch

Lunch break. A musician, a baguette sandwich - and an impressive moustache.

Fête de la Branda - Socca 2

Socca is a type of crepe made from a batter of chickpea flour, olive oil, water, salt and pepper. When it's cooked (this oven is wood-fired) the socca is cut into pieces with a pizza wheel and then wrapped in paper - or placed on a paper plate. As you can see in the last photo, there was a long queue in the village to buy this traditional dish. It's eaten with the fingers.

Some socca ovens are bigger than this one and take a one-metre diameter cast iron pan - then the cooked socca obviously feeds quite a few people.

From Provence Beyond: 'Socca and Cade are Provençal pancakes that go back at least to 1860. Cade de Toulon, probably the most ancient, was made from corn flour and the Socca de Nice that evolved from it is made from chick-pea flour. The Marseilles version is today made with a mixture of flours, using only a small amount of chick-pea flour; in Marseilles this was called "tourta tota cada", meaning "tourte toute chaude", or nice hot tarts. It was mentioned in 1879 by Frédéric Mistral as "gâteau de farine de maïs qu'on vend par tranches à Marseille" (or in the vulgar tongue "corn-flour cake sold by the slice in Marseilles").

In that ancient time, there were cade/socca sellers at the marchés and at work sites where they provided the favorite morning meal of the workers. The cade/socca sellers used special wagons with built-in charcoal ovens to keep their wares hot while they announced them with the appropriate cries of "cada, cada, cada" or "socca, socca, socca caouda". Some of the ambulatory socca/cade sellers (or their descendents) are still to be found in the markets at Nice, Toulon and la Seyne-sur-Mer, where the slices are served in paper cones.'

And in Gorbio...

Fête de la Branda - Socca

A speciality of south-eastern France, especially around Nice. It's 10.30h at the Fête de la Branda and the socca oven is already in operation. Later, at lunchtime, there will be a long queue of hungry visitors.

Socca is a sort of crepe made with chickpea flour and olive oil and it's delicious. Come back tomorrow and we'll see exactly how it's made.

Fête de la Branda - the Woodturner

Concentration and skill - this woodturner is giving a demonstration of his art. Alongside you see some of the beautiful things he has for sale - probably all made of olive wood.

Work is much more fun than fun - Noel Coward

Fête de la Branda - the Kitten

Everyone comes to the Fete. Here's one much-loved kitten on a lead. Youmi is 5 months old and was visiting from La Turbie, the hill village above Monaco.

La Fête de la Branda - Charcuterie

Cholesterol!

Charcuterie - mostly made from pork although the products in the smaller photograph are made from sanglier (wild boar). The hunters are out right now - every day I hear gunshots down the valley.

La Fête de la Branda - the Blue Dress

For sale in the village - a child's blue dress. In the smaller photograph, perhaps an interested buyer?

La Fête de la Branda - Vide Grenier

Vide grenier - literally 'empty the attic.' Perhaps we'd call it a bric-a-brac sale or a garage sale.

You might recognise this square - the church is to the left and recently I posted a photograph of a brass hand (door knob) and the next day the door and facade. It's the same door you see on the left. Click on the link to see how different it looks without the children's clothes and toys.

La Fête de la Branda - Applause

Applause for the musicians.

La Fête de la Branda - the Gourd

Perhaps the strangest instrument. This lady is playing what I presume is a gourd. At the beginning of the day this group - Le Ravanet Club - walked all through the village, stopping at various places and playing to the sellers of cheeses, breads, olives etc - they played to the people running the bric-a-brac stands, they entered the village gift shop and played. All great fun.