The Chanel Handbag

Penitents come in all colours, white, black, red and occasionally with a Chanel style handbag, as you see in the smaller photo.

The Penitents of Saorge

A couple of weekends ago there was a gathering in Gorbio of 250 Penitents from Nice, Monaco, from the hinterland around here and along the coast. It's only once in every ten years that it comes to Gorbio - so an important day for this medieval village.

It started with a procession through the village followed by a service in the church presided over by no less a personage than the bishop. Later lunch was served in one of the village squares.

In this photo we see the Penitents Blancs of Saorge. Saorge is a beautiful perched village in the Roya valley, way way above Menton.

Black Dog

We're back in Gorbio village - a dog, the church's new facade and, unfortunately, dog poop. Happily more and more people are picking up after their dogs - plastic bags are provided and I believe there is a law if you don't. Someone missed this bit though...

The dog is Dunya - a 7 year old Labrador/German Short-haired Pointer mix. She was re-homed from a Belgian refuge 6 years ago and now lives in Brussels and in Menton. Black dogs are difficult to photograph but I was pleased with the close-up you can find on Riviera Dogs - the light was just right.

The Unlit Cigarette

He's searching his pockets, looking for a match...which he eventually found.

Dining in the Rain

A plastic cover - et voila! - you can dine outside when it's raining.

A Courtyard in Castellar

Castellar is an ancient perched village 6 kilometres above Menton. It sits on a narrow ridge with steep valleys on all sides.

Here's a pretty courtyard on the main street - on the right is the entrance to a small atelier selling pottery.

Vincent

'I often think that the night is more alive and more richly colored than the day.'

~Vincent Van Gogh

Waterlogged

One more day with these amazing Newfoundlands - life-savers of the sea.

Mind you, whilst the dogs can jump into the sea, rescue people, pull boats, do all sorts of wonders, in Menton they all needed help getting out of the sea and onto the rocks. Owners need to be strong - these are very heavy dogs, especially with their coats full of water.

For anyone interested, more photos of Newfies will be on Riviera Dogs for a good few days yet.

The Sea Rescue Dogs

Last weekend in Menton we had three days of 'Métiers de la Mer' - which introduced young people to careers relating to the sea.

The display by a training club for dogs and owners who save lives at sea - 'Terre-Neuve 06' - had us all entranced and at times in fits of laughter. Terre-Neuve is French for Newfoundland (the black ones). The black and white variety of Newfoundland is called a Landseer. They came from all over this part of France including one from Menton.

In the first photo the dog demonstrates how he swims with a person in distress clinging to his life-jacket. In the smaller photo, the dog pulls in a boat! And in the last photo, one jumps off the jetty. More photos on Riviera Dogs.

Tomorrow we'll see how these big dogs got out of the water - not easily...

The Artist

Our last day in Gorbio - finally the story of the church's new facade comes to an end. It's part of the village now and visitors are surprised to learn it's new - it gives one the feeling it's been there for several hundred years.

This is the man responsible for its creation - Monsieur François Zanatta, the artist/frescoist who has worked for six long months painting the facade. Such a nice man and so self-effacing - when I tell him what a brilliant artist he is, he'll say 'Oh no, it's what I do.' But as you can see in the small photo, I'm not the only one who feels the need to congratulate Monsieur Zanatta for the great job he and his assistant have done.

The company Viotti & Soulier from Monaco employ 20 artists/artisans who produce work of this quality. It's so good to know that the old skills - trompe l'oeil, false wood and marble effects, restoration of old friezes etc are alive and well.

So - finally - we get to the end of this series. It's taken rather too long and I do thank everyone who stuck with the story. Your comments have kept me going!

Tomorrow, Menton and the joys of the water!

The Benediction

It's dusk and we are witnessing the benediction of the new facade of l'Eglise Saint Barthélemy in Gorbio.

This series on the new facade has taken a long time and much as I adore Gorbio, I'm getting fed up with looking at the pics. You probably are too!

So, tomorrow, we meet the most important person - the artist responsible. And after that - back to Menton.

Hair

Everyone admires and discusses the church's new facade.

I was intrigued by this lady's beautiful grey hair.

The Inauguration - the Dignitaries

The village has gathered and is listening to its mayor, Monsieur Michel Isnard. He thanks the various organisations within the state, the region and the department, in particular the one responsible for patrimony. There was also a public subscription and 102 families within the village and commune of Gorbio made donations.

Later the mayors of Menton and of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin spoke - all in praise of course as tonight is the inauguration of the beautiful new facade of l'Eglise Saint Barthélemy - 327 years after the church was built, when it couldn't afford to have it done.

It's dusk and the figures could be a little sharper but at least this sets the scene. The chairs are for the elderly, the infirm and of course the dignitaries in the front row - the mayors and clergy.

The Priest

We're back in the village of Gorbio for the inauguration of the church's new facade. Here, one of the priests who will officiate waits for his moment - hands behind his back.

Mindless Graffiti in Menton

There is no street art in Menton, not even interesting graffiti - just mindless tags defacing one particular square in the Old Town.

The main photo was taken outside the market - the smaller one in the square I mentioned.

The Mairie says it costs a fortune to keep cleaning it up, surveillance cameras have been suggested but so far no real solution. As soon as they clean it off, it appears again.

The last photo at least has a message and I thank Nathalie for the translation (I had problems with the word 'bêst' - it doesn't exist in the dictionary). Translation: 'la bête d'amour' (the love beast!) and la 'best' d'amour (the best lover) so it combines the meanings of 'best' and 'beast'.

Today is Theme Day in the CDP community and to see how others around the world have interpreted today's theme of 'Graffiti' please click here to view thumbnails for all participants.

The Church's New Facade - Revealed!

Drum roll...the finished facade. I took this shot yesterday afternoon but even so was about 10 minutes too late and so there is some shadow across the lower right hand corner.

The small photo on the left shows the facade against the old wall on the side of the church - and below, you see the facade, after preparation of the surface but before any work was done. The colours were hung from the scaffolding for the villagers to see.

Tomorrow is Theme Day on CDP but after that we'll pop back here to the inauguration of the facade when the place was full of bishops and mayors and other dignitaries and most importantly, Monsieur Zanatta who created this masterpiece.

The Church's New Facade - Saint Roch

The idea was to show you the finished facade today. At this time of year, the sun hits the facade around 15h.00 and so at 14h.30 yesterday I was there, tripod at the ready. Then the sun disappeared and the sky totally clouded over. I took some photos regardless but am not pleased - so I'll go up to the village again today and hopefully you'll see the finished facade tomorrow.

Meanwhile, this is one I took a week or so ago of one of the two 'statues' depicted in trompe l'oeil. They are either side of the church door. One is of Saint Roch and one of Saint Lazaire, protectors of the village, and they are inspired by sculptures in the church.

There is a Chapel Saint Roch on one side of the village and a Chapel Saint Lazare on the other - each built to protect the village in medieval times.

The Church's New Facade - From a Distance

This photo was taken from outside the medieval village. We see Monsieur Zanatta at work and in the smaller photo, his assistant, Madame Sauvage. How hard it must be to paint with arms above your head and in the summer heat. These shots were taken in mid-July.

The Church's New Facade - the Drawings

These are the intricate drawings that are fixed to the facade to ensure each tiny measurement is exactly reproduced. You can see the result in the photo below. Monsieur Zanatta said that the upper level of the church took the longest and was the most intricate.

The Church's New Facade - The Assistant & her Dog

Today we meet Monsieur Zanatta's charming assistant, Madame Evelyne Sauvage - and her dog! He wouldn't want to fall off the scaffolding but then obviously he's used to sitting happily alongside his owner whilst she does her delicate and beautiful work.

The Church's New Facade - The Frescoist

The main work was done by Viotti & Soulier of Monaco and today we see Monsieur François Zanatta, the brilliant décorateur fresquiste (frescoist decorator) at work - a true artist. You'll meet him again, of course.

These photos were taken in the middle and end of July - the red hanging is to protect the work from the intense summer heat - and the workers!

Tomorrow, we'll meet Monsieur Zanatta's assistant.

The Church's New Facade - Taking Shape

It's a month later. Yesterday's photos were taken in May - these in June. The background colours are on and if you look carefully at the top left hand corner of the facade, you can see the trompe l'oeil taking shape. This is shown in close-up below.

The artist works from the design in the smaller photo.

This shot of the church was taken one evening when we all went in and listened to the blissful strings of Arco Musica - click on the link.

The Church's New Facade - Testing the Colours

The surface is now finished - the final coats are based on lime and powdered Carrera marble. All the preparation has been done as it would have been in the 17th century.

The facade has had the right amount of time to dry, which, because of our incredibly heavy spring rains this year, put everything back by two months. During this time the facade was covered by heavy plastic fixed over the scaffolding.

The framework of the windows is in place.

Below you see the design that was chosen and over the next days we'll meet the artisan, and his assistant, who will be creating the trompe l'oeil - you see him on the scaffolding. Meanwhile, he has tested the colours - top photo.